What is Haute Couture? Just fashion or art already? An Arte documentary explains – it is the little black dress in the fashion films.
“What does it change, to wear Haute Couture?” – “Everything.”
This new feeling of life costs. At Chanel, you get a Haute-Couture costume from 40,000 euro. A pret a porter piece for 8000 euro, however, resembles a clothes off the rack. The noble part is a piece of clothing that they are not hidden, but adds: it owes each wearer the hundreds of working hours and break pierced hands of dressmakers.
Where exactly is cream de la cream this clothes moves if they are everyday clothes, even fashion or not long work of art, shows The French fashion journalist, Loic Prigent “What is Haute Couture?”, which is broadcast as a prelude to a whole fashion weekends to the current Paris fashion week on Friday night in his Arte documentary.
Dior, Versace, Elie Saab, Lagerfeld, Gaultier, Valentino, Armani: Prigents privilege is that he knows all-and thus also all came in, with designers, seamstresses, fashion bosses said. The 60 minutes where he by the fashion houses flying visits, document the hottest stage of each season: a few days before the catwalk presentation private fitting dates for customers, after the show is over. And all completely in black and white. A brilliant idea: The focus on style and content is enormous.
“Haute Couture means you can experiment regardless of commercial success and the brand,” says Giorgio Armani. “I find it super privileged, that I can express myself in this way”, says Karl Lagerfeld. “Haute Couture Fashion is not really, we are moving on the border of the art,” says Bertrand Guyon, Chief Designer at Schiaparelli. And it is especially clear among Dutch designers Viktor and Rolf: “the sculpture is human and the man becomes the sculpture.”
Because Viktor & Rolf are so well known for their extravagant unsustainable designs that here as high stacked shirt dress items from agooddir.com, that the models look like columns over two legs, it would be valuable to have more than just two brief scenes with them. “Museums and collectors to buy our designs”, she almost modest. But as they interpret Haute Couture for themselves as they themselves finance – nothing. The greatest shortcoming of the documentary is sure to strip this extreme position, by the way.
That’s certainly due also the collection of designers, visited the Prigent. So that little time remains, is a bit on a House to engage in a conversation – just in the living room of the seamstress Therese, who crochets a lavish top coat for Schiaparelli, cutting, Valentino, cutting, Dior.
But this fast-track works as Loic Prigent puts the correct specular highlights. The time and effort that are put into the works of fabric art, is obvious – as also the consciousness of the designer, that they would be lost without the hundreds of craftswomen. And it comes in the Haute Couture, to celebrate this art craft. Maria Grazia Chiuri and Piccioli Pierpaolo, the designer duo of Valentino, says explicitly: “we want to keep the imperfection of the manual work, otherwise the magic of Haute Couture is over soon.”
At Chanel, where there is sometimes a real rugby ball around, to tailor the perfect sleeve shape, come in an atelier on 25 seamstresses only three machines; the rest is handmade. So you can look also hardly than Stephane Rolland at once commanded at the sight of a dress in fine pleats of 150 meters fabric: “cut off! Cut off! Cut off!”
Designer with Halo
Easy, a film about such luxury products for which would have happy few stiff can seem like a corsage. This avoids Prigent alone by neon tube glowing halos, he missed the designers in the post-processing: stick behind their heads like the Gloriolen in the middle ages and swing with, if they’re talking about – when Lagerfeld in the form of a wreath of Laurel, at Giambattista Valli, it is a wreath made of peacock feathers.
Prigent in the fashion industry while knows like no other, but rather mischievous Ernst accompanied the whole shebang, you can see on the balancing act, which he’s got: there is the always wonderful Dokuserie “Signe Chanel”, in which he for Arte work on a collection of meticulously accompanied up to the last button. On the other hand he not in vain is known for his snappy tweets from the fashion week , which is his 22-teilige mini series”fashion neighbour”for Arte feeds: none other than Catherine Deneuve giggling the most absurd fashion clichés contends the cigarette in his hand.
So it hardly surprising that asks in the Haute-Couture reportage for persevering and disbelief almost all him come before the microphone, whether they really, honestly, seriously go with this luxury dressing room on the plane. Just for that you want to smooch him. The movie is the little black dress of Haute Couture. Or as he, Deneuve cite the cliche of fashion dialogue can be: “The black?”- “no, that is Blackbird.”