In the middle of Munich, at the Heart Club, the Karlsruher SingSong welcomes me. Home feelings come up. On the second floor it continues with the Baden sound:the catalogue shipper and online shop Heine is in the house. The logo is well known to me from my first 18 years of life. With TV-fashion designer star and Frauenversteher Guido Maria Kretschmer, Heine is currently launching the fourth common collection for large sizes.
At a salon show, Guido Maria Kretschmer explains to the editors each outfit individually and in detail – just as it used to be in Paris. And I would be very happy if Olivier Rousteing & Co. are considering this for their runway shows again. I am interested in why a designer puts a seam where and why he has chosen this or that material – rather than collection texts that rewrite a mostly abstract source of inspiration flowery. Seldom does the designer have anything to do with these texts. I am all the more pleased about the practical experiences that GMK so fondly share with everyone. This time on the topic “Plus size”, “curvy”, “more body” or how to call all clothes sizes from 40…
Guido Maria Kretschmer Plus Size tips
– The semi-transparent upper material of a knee-length skirt or dress, he leaves at his curvy collection for the mail-order retailer and catalog shipper Heine a few inches longer than in his normal “high fashion” collection. For so the knee is concealed, but as it still shines through, the leg is not shortened. Smart man.
– A similar principle applies to double-layered blouses, where the semi-transparent fabric covers the butt in a diagonal cut.
– Stretch longitudinal seams on the front center of a trousers and visually narrow the leg.
– Leather leggings Get a Zierbiese for the visually slimmer thigh and also a backside made of a firmer jersey and an elastic top. According to GMK, every Plussize woman wants to have leather leggings – just like any other woman.
– in dresses he likes to build a V-shaped back neckline (up to just above the bra), because this body position looks beautiful for every woman, even in old age, he says. This is what the woman always likes to show – in comparison to bare upper arms and knees, for example.
– with curves in the abdominal and hip areas, you like to wear “throws” or longer jackets from Threergroup. To ensure that this does not look difficult, Guido Maria Designs Kretschmer ponchos and short coats in light, light colours. His white, elastic summer coat made of fabric with floral pattern is “perfect gradierbar also in large sizes.”
– Overalls: They were considered no-go for a long time for “women with more body”. We remember together with the designer to the comedian Hella of senses in her work clothes: overalls as we know them from the gas station. But also with dresses size 44 and over it you can wear narrow jumpsuits. It is even decisive that they are proxies and not overcut. And again the oblong details: fold in front and seams at the back. Important in such a full body suit is the solid material (I find personally, clothes size 34, by the way also). GMK loves the crepe fabric for it: “For me one of the most fascinating substances that has ever existed,” he says. and points out that you can off small stains so easily. For his practical tips, everyone loves him.
– Bright summer dress? Many said to the designer that they would like one, but that with the big size is always difficult. His solution: A white cocktail dress with a nudefarbenen chiffon in an asymmetrical cut over it. This is very flowing (makes a narrow silhouette) and it is concealed at the same time.